So you want the timeless look of 3/4 ton dog dish hubcaps on the 16" wheels you already own (or some new inexpensive steel wheels), and the ability to take them off road; returning home with the hubcaps still firmly attached (hopefully)? Say less, I've got you with these adapter rings I developed for our 72 K20 shop truck.
Vigorously tested off-road and revised for the perfect blend of "that's not going anywhere" with the ability to remove them without destroying them when needed using a 90 degree pick tool (I only lost one during development so pour out a sip for our fallen homie). Thinking about how I could make installation fool proof the adapter rings are self centering on the Inner most diameter of the wheel where the ring meets the face so you can ensure your caps spin true. With that in mind there are currently two different O.D. options on my adapter rings for 16" wheels (I'm always willing to add more as you need them if you ask via email) which brings me to step #1 of the installation process so please follow along as I walk you through the best practices:
Step 1: CHECK EVERYTHING BEFORE YOU ORDER PLEASE ALL SALES ARE FINAL. While I've tested these on multiple wheels before settling on the right outer diameters to center align the hubcaps within reason and fit inside the wheel's narrowest point without interference its important that you make sure you get the right set for your wheels and that you do indeed have 3/4 ton hubcaps which measure approximately 12" on their outside diameter. These may retain other hubcaps with approximately 11.75" inner retaining ring diameters but I have only tested them with 67-72 & 73-87 Chevy 12" hubcaps as found on 3/4 ton pickups. Both outer diameters of the retaining rings: 13.438" & 14.125" coincide with aftermarket 16" wheels. The best thing to do is measure the inner diameter of your rim where it meets the highest point of the flat inside face and ensure one of those diameters will slide all the way down for welding. To make good and sure you can always make a mock up template from cardboard if necessary. If neither fits just shoot me an email kyle.kuhnhausen@gmail.com I'm usually more than happy to advise and/or create the right diameter for your installation, the service here is unmatched and we don't stock a shred of red tape.
Step 2: So your Package has arrived, it will look something like the picture here. You should receive (4x) adapter rings and (34x) small retaining tabs. You only need 32 tabs but a few extra never hurt, they're small and nothing sucks worse than getting 31 by mistake and waiting an extra week for that lone missing tab. Once everything is accounted for give it a quick swipe with acetone and head to the welding bench.
Step 3: No rocket science here, each adapter ring gets 8 retaining tabs which will hand press into the 8 corespondent slots. Orientation of the tabs is important, the small end of the tapered tab faces inwards towards the center, the side with a concave feature faces outwards as that's what holds the hubcap in place. I prefer tig welding these as it's neat and precise but you do you mig monkey if that's what you're working with. A third hand is helpful to hold downward pressure ensuring each tab sits flush to the adapter ring. A quick stitch up one side of the tab is sufficient, you do not need to fully weld these as the heat is likely to warp the ring if you do and that is on you.
Step 4: At this point you should have all 32 tabs welded neatly to the 4 adapter rings. Reference this picture for an ideal weld example stitched up one side of the tab, and for adjusting the retaining tension of your hubcaps. First and foremost manufacturing practices back in the day were not that precise. With that in mind and considering these hubcaps cost a small fortune nowadays and you don't want to lose any this step is important. I've set these tabs up to absolutely lock the hubcaps on so that under extreme conditions they will still retain your hubcaps (probably.. I'm not going to make any guarantees but i put a lot of effort into trying to make them pop off while driving in extreme conditions so you can have some piece at mind they are safe) The best practice before welding the adapter rings to your wheels is to bench test them ensuring you can get the hubcap on and off. If you can't get your hubcap to pop on (it shouldn't be too easy or they will exit the chat at some point) or when you do, it takes too much effort to remove them (a 90 degree hook tool of reasonable diameter is helpful for this, give them a good rip, they need to flex a bit to let go) you can massage the small radius leading into the concave shape as shown in the picture on each tab until the right retention pressure for you is achieved. I'm just going to say it now I am not responsible in any way for your lost hubcaps... I've done everything I can do to ensure you will not lose them. If you remove too much material or don't pop them on fully (I've done this one...) it's on you. Use common sense, you've got this!
Step 5: You're almost there! Set the adapter ring on the wheel. There shouldn't be excessive play where it can go if you've selected the right ring. If it doesn't set all the way down on the face of the wheel you clearly missed step 1 and that means its time to get out the grinder and take material off the adapter O.D until it fits (I warned you, I'm sorry if you're here. Cold refreshments may be in order: vacation rules apply to the time of day) If there is play do your best or get temporary shims and place the ring in the center of the wheel. Take a paint pen or marking tool and mark where the 8 plug weld holes contact the wheel face. This can be tricky as most wheel brands are different. If your plug weld holes don't align with anything to properly plug weld to the face of the wheel you will be stuck stitch welding the outer perimeter above the hole to the inner wheel barrel. If this is the method for you 8 stitch welds approximately 1-2" long in 45 degree centers is more than sufficient. More welding = more distortion. In either case mark where you need to remove any paint or powder coat to execute a strong weld and take the adapter ring back out.
Step 6: Remove any paint/powder coat where you previously marked on the wheel using a grinder. I prefer Carborundum brand "Carbo-Fire" #29280 non-woven quick change 3" surface blending discs for this, they're the best I've found. Be sure to then apply a weld-through primer coating to any bare metal that will be covered by the adapter ring. My preference for this is U-Pol brand #UP0768 copper rich primer. It's a phenomenal product to both weld and improve corrosion resistance. It's the only product I've found you can tig weld right through without consequence to the weld quality. Do yourself a favor Use Proper PPE a well ventilated area and high quality respirator.
Step 7: Use the same weld through primer as step 6 to coat the back side of the adapter rings with retention tabs already welded in. Once dry you may place all 4 adapter rings onto the wheels being careful to center them. If you used shims earlier you will once again need them as keeping these adapters centered will help keep the wheels in balance. Pay attention ensuring your 8 spots prepared on the wheel align with the 8 spot weld or outer perimeter stitch weld areas on the adapter rings to create a strong weld.
Step 8: Complete 8 strong plug welds (shown) or stitch welds to the perimeter on each wheel. Tig or Mig welding work well for this step, it comes down to how averse you are to getting sparks on your tires. It's recommended to complete this task on a bare wheel with the tire removed but you can use your best judgement here. However you choose, be careful and skip around in a star pattern while welding (like torquing lug nuts) to keep from warping or overheating the wheel. Heat can cause a change in the temper of the steel and may lead to failure of the wheel which is very dangerous. Again, Kuhnhausen Metal Concepts LLC and it's owner will not be held liable for any damages to person(s) or property resultant of this modification to your vehicle. This kit is intended for OFF-Road Use Only
Step 9: Carefully dress any welds as desired being cautious to only remove excess material, but not the structure of the weld. Once satisfied I recommend using an etching primer like Axalta Brand #VS3100 to prepare the surface for it's final finish.
You've completed the install and it's time to snap on those hub caps. If you've been diligent in Step 4 this is a breeze, if you aren't satisfied with how they are retaining please refer back to step 4 and lightly modifying the retaining clips. It's tougher to do at this stage but not impossible. A hand held file may be a better tool to use in an effort to save your new coating. Be sure to appropriately dress any bare metal spots created to prevent corrosion.
Finishing Thoughts: If you've made it this far it's nearly over I promise. Speaking to you personally as Kyle Kuhnhausen the: owner, operator, designer, fabricator, janitor, & now blogger of Kuhnhausen Metal Concepts llc. I sincerely hope that this has been a helpful instructional write up for you! I sure appreciate you tuning in. Whether you have bought my hubcap adapter kit (you rule!) or are just visiting my site I truly appreciate your support. I take great pride in providing products that give you great value for the cost but also in providing unmatched service. If you have any questions, need any clarification, have critiques, or just liked this article feel free to drop me a line kyle.kuhnhausen@gmail.com and I will get back to you as best fit. Please take a second to also check out my other products as I think you'll find something else you'll like that can save you time, save you money, or something just plain cool and all sales help support new innovations as well as my growing family! Take Care - KC
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